Hpa-An is the capital of the Kayin state, and while the city itself doesn’t have any attractions, other than sitting by the river and letting time pass by, it’s what’s surrounding the city that is fasinating. Buddha’s, so many Buddha’s. Living in caves.

After finding the backpackers with Dan and the French girls, it would turn out that I didn’t have a reservation here. The Soe Brothers guesthouse is a well known and popular backpackers in Hpa-An, so popular in fact that they opened a second guesthouse under the same name. This was the one I had booked.

They kindly gave me a bike ride to the second guesthouse, which was a fair bit out of the centre and right by the river. It turned out to be a much nicer place to stay, away from the bustle of the centre, right near the bus stop I’d take the bus through to Inle Lake, and a fairly decent restaurant a few blocks down the rode. (which I saw so many faces from the boat go to as well).

In fact I’d say I saw everyone from the boat at some point or another throughout the coming days in Hpa-An. It’s a small town and everyone is doing the same sight seeing.

The Soe Brothers have an all day trip to visit the various Buddha caves scattered around the rural countryside, and after checking there were enough numbers in the morning (minimum 6), I jumped into a tuk tuk along with 3 French and 3 Spaniards. I was a strange ride at first, to my left they spoke French, and to my right they spoke Spanish. I thought back to so many similar trips where that would normally be the reserve, everyone speaking English except for one quiet soul that didn’t speak it. The tables had turned and I was that one quiet soul at first, but eventually we all started talking, and English was the universal language.

I like the idea of Buddhists coming across these caves, mostly around the Zwegabin mountain, and deciding that what these caves really need are Buddhas. Lots of Buddhas. The more the better. Each cave you enter has a Buddha on just about every conceivable ledge, some have a reclining Buddha just chilling out in the dark, or a row of Buddha’s with silver pots for alms.

In one cave, Kawgun, the Buddha’s were constructed when King Manuaha was defeated in battle and took sanctuary here. The entry way would have at least two dozen Buddha’s offering alms, and a dozen more Buddha’s just acting all zen like inside, including some scenes of the Kings battle loss.

There was one cave I didn’t go all the way into, and that was the Saddan Cave. Entering the cave you’re greeted by… well, a lot of Buddha’s, but the path continues through the cave and it becomes very muddy and slippery. And remember this is holy ground, so no shoes. I reached a point where there was no light and just slippery ankle breaking mud. The rest of the crew continued on, but I decided to turn back, the thought of falling over in pitch black pierced up by a couple of mobile phone lights wasn’t inspiring confidence. I even had to bum it back down one of the steep slopes as I was getting paranoid I’d fall.

 It’s shame, as that cave did sound interesting and one of the girls showed me her photos. The cave would eventually open out to farm land and a lake. From here you took a canoe ride with a local back to near the entrance. I spent that time rehearsing my Burmese, which admittedly I’m terrible at.

One of the truly strange sights is the lead up to Mt Zwegabin. A huge field of Buddha’s dot the area. According to the Lonely Planet there are 1150 identical Buddha’s here, some in shrines and many just sitting on pedestals. You stand there looking across the sea of Buddha’s off into the distance, it would be unnerving if it were any other statue, but smiling Buddha’s make it a happy place.

 And speaking of happy Buddhists, we stopped at monastery called Kyauk Kalap, which differentiates itself from stock standard monasteries by being situated on an island with a single finger like rock formation rising toward the sky. The monks, ever inventive and seeing opportunity in strange landmarks, have cut stairs into the rock and at the peak is a monk that listens to peoples prayers. It’s quite interesting to climb up a handful of stairs and at the end, in a small alcove, individuals pray with a cross legged monk.

The temperature started to drop and the sounds of thunder started to call out. Time to head back to the guesthouse. We’d left around 9am and returned at 6pm, just as the rain began to drizzle. It only cost us $5 each, which is pretty amazing value for an entire day tour.

The next day my bus wasn’t until 7pm, so it became a lazy stroll around the town to kill time. I could see myself staying here for another day, especially after I discovered a local place to eat on the river that served an enormous Tom Yom soup filled with chicken, prawns, and squid.

But no it wasn’t to be, the bus ticket was booked, accomodation reserved, next stop Inle Lake and to see what this Fire Balloon festival was all about.