The Hill of Crosses is 12km out of Šiauliai, and its literally in the middle of country bumpkin nowhere. There’s no buses that go directly there, unlike Rundāle Palace, and the closest bus stop is 2km from the site. I didn’t fancy that walk on a 26 degree day, and what I would see later the road had no shade whatsoever. Plus, I was still hearing the sting of my ankle warning me not to get too cocky.

I decided to chance just asking a taxi to drive me out to the Hill of Crosses and back. A couple of taxis sat awaiting fares outside the station, and I met Brent. He didn’t speak any English, but we communicated well enough. He decided to be a tour guide as we drove through town and into the countryside.

He’d point at a church (and cross himself). A school. A petrol station! Where to buy tractors! He was an enthusiastic man, and loved to call out every cars manufacturer. He started to use Google Translate to ask more complicated questions, one being if I wasn’t afraid of being here with Russia next door that might invade. I told him there was no chance of the Rus invading, its safe here. He smiled at that, like a kid being reassured by a knowing adult.

There’s a tourist information area outside the hill, and a bunch of typical souvenir shops. A couple of tour buses were already here, but thankful not enough to overwhelm the site. They mostly comprised of the elderly, so they’re easy to overtake on the path leading to the hill.

This hill is the most peculiar thing I’ve seen in a long while. Nobody knows when people started leaving crosses here, however it has truly become a symbol of enduring tyranny; during the Soviet occupation from 1944 to 1990, hundreds to thousands of crosses where destroyed over that period of time, only for the people to populate the hill with more crosses. The KGB would guard the hill and detain anyone bringing crosses, and yet the crosses grew and the Soviets attempt to destroy the landmark failed to the power of the people.

Today there are literally thousands of crucifixes. Everywhere. All over the two hills, and surrounding them, large crosses were erected, then pilgrims added more crosses onto that, then more smaller ones piled on. Throw some Jesus effigies in there too, along with rosemary beads, pictures of saints, all the Christian icons you can think of. But please add crosses most of all, the hill needs all the crosses you have.

I had one last day in Vilnius before departing. I was just going to be a nothing day, a day to have no plans. And so I sat and read my book, now on the second William Gibson Neuromancer trilogy, Count Zero. I was on a bit of a “why haven’t I read this” book mission currently.

The final dinner was at The Meating Room, and steak inspired restaurant I had seen on day one of explorer Vilnius. The fillet steak wasn’t too crazy expensive, at 30 Euro’s, as it was cooked to perfection and I must have looked like a mad man savoring every bite like it were my last.

And with that, a fine way to end the Baltics adventure.